1. Via Indipendenza
In this itinerary, medieval alleys intertwine with buildings from the rationalist architectural period. Today, we will explore a route that combines the charm of the past with modernity, touching on symbolic places of art, history, and culture. We start from Via Indipendenza, a street built in 1890 to connect the railway station directly with Piazza Maggiore, becoming the city’s main promenade. This street is lined with both historical buildings and rationalist constructions dating back to the 1930s.
2. Via Galliera and Palazzo Felicini
Heading towards Piazza Maggiore and turning right onto Via dei Falegnami, we arrive at Via Galliera - before the construction of Via Indipendenza, this was the city’s most prestigious street, as shown by its buildings of great artistic value. At number 14 stands Palazzo Felicini, built in 1497 by Bartolomeo Felicini, an outstanding example of Bolognese Renaissance architecture. The portico features arches supported by columns with Corinthian capitals. Beneath the portico, the imposing main doorway dates back to the same period as the palace itself. The upper part of the façade features windows with arched tops divided into two sections, supported by a horizontal frame, while the highest level includes small circular windows. Many of the decorative elements are made from finely crafted terracotta.
3. Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
Continuing to number 10, we reach the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore, the oldest church in Bologna dedicated to the Virgin Mary, dating back to the 6th century. Inside, visitors can admire a painting of the Madonna with Child and the Saints James the Lesser and Anthony the Abbot by Orazio Samacchini, as well as a depiction of the Madonna adoring the Child among Saints Liberata and Onofrio, by a 15th-century Bolognese artist. The church can be visited during Sunday Mass or by appointment.
4. Palazzo Aldrovandi
Built in 1725, this is one of the few buildings in Via Galliera without a portico. It’s a fine example of Baroque and Rococo architecture. The façade, by Alfonso Torreggiani, stands out for its light-colored marble, which is rare in Bologna.
5. Chiesa di Santa Maria di Galliera and Oratorio di San Filippo Neri
Continuing along Via De’ Monari and then Via De’ Piatesi, we reach Via Manzoni, where the Church of Santa Maria di Galliera stands on the right, dating back to the 14th century and enriched over the centuries with artworks by Francesco Albani, Guercino, and other artists. Next to it is the former Oratory of San Filippo Neri, designed by Alfonso Torreggiani, which houses paintings by Francesco Monti and Angelo Pio. It also features the fresco “Ecce Homo”, a typical scene of the Passion of Christ painted by Ludovico Carracci.
6. Palazzo Ghisilardi-Fava and the Museo Civico Medievale
Upon leaving the church, we can see Palazzo Ghisilardi-Fava, a 15th-century building that now houses the Medieval Civic Museum. Here you can admire artworks that tell the story of Bologna’s political and economic power during the Middle Ages. Some notable exhibits are the wooden statue of Boniface VIII, covered with gilded copper plates and made around 1300 by Manno di Bandino, and the model of Giambologna’s Neptune Fountain. The collection includes Lombard-era pieces and objects in glass and ivory, offering a journey through the centuries up to the testimonies of life in the Bentivoglio court. Palazzo Fava also includes the Palazzo delle Esposizioni, dedicated to hosting temporary exhibitions. The palace’s rooms themselves are a true work of art, decorated with a grand fresco cycle by Agostino, Annibale, and Ludovico Carracci, which illustrates the myth of Jason and Medea. Commissioned by Filippo Fava in 1584, this masterpiece is considered one of the finest achievements of Renaissance painting.
7. Chiesa and Oratorio di San Colombano
Continuing along Via Parigi, at number 5 we find the Church of San Colombano and its Oratory. Here you can admire the fresco of the Madonna of Prayer by Lippo di Dalmasio, and the Gloriosa Gara, a cycle of frescoes inspired by the Passion and Triumph of Christ. The Oratory also houses a precious collection of ancient musical instruments.
8. Chiesa dei Santi Gregorio e Siro
Turning from Via Usberti into Via Montegrappa, at number 15 we find the Church of Saints Gregory and Siro, built in 1532. Inside, it preserves remarkable artworks by the Carracci family, as well as by Procaccini and Calvaert.
9. Palazzo Lancia
Continuing along Via Sauro and turning left onto Via Riva Reno, we reach the monumental Palazzo Lancia, an example of modernist architecture with neoclassical elements. Designed by Graziani, it reflects strong metaphysical inspiration.
10. Galleria d’Arte Moderna Raccolta Lercaro
A short distance away, at 57 Via Riva Reno, we find the Lercaro Gallery of Modern Art, which is free to enter, and features works by Giacomo Balla and Giorgio Morandi.
11. Palazzo del Gas
Continuing and turning onto Via Lame, at the corner with Via Marconi, stands another remarkable building - Palazzo del Gas, designed by Alberto Legnani in the rationalist style.
12. Basilica di San Francesco
A few steps ahead lies Piazza San Francesco, dominated by the basilica of the same name, whose grand façade immediately draws attention. Next to the square is the basilica’s courtyard, featuring the Cloister of the Dead and several tombs of 13th-century glossators - scholars of the ancient Studium of Bologna who revived Roman law, laying the foundations of modern jurisprudence. The basilica is one of the oldest churches in Italy dedicated to Saint Francis, second only to the one in Assisi. Built starting in 1236, it represents the first example of French Gothic architecture in Italy, although its design still retains clear elements of Romanesque Gothic, visible on the façade. The great bell tower, dating back to 1397, is the work of Antonio di Vincenzo. Inside, the atmosphere is deeply evocative, with a Latin-cross plan of three naves. The central one, which is higher, has sexpartite ribbed vaults, similar to those of Notre Dame in Paris. The main altar is particularly striking, featuring a precious marble altarpiece crafted by brothers Jacobello and Pier Paolo dalle Masegne. Also of great interest is the Chapel of St. Bernardino, dating back to the 13th century, and the terracotta tomb of Antipope Alexander V, sculpted by Niccolò Lamberti in 1424.
13. Chiesa Ortodossa di San Basilio il Grande
Crossing the square and continuing along Via Sant’Isaia, at number 35 we find the Orthodox Church of Saint Basil the Great, housed in the former Church of Sant’Anna, founded in 1435 by Cardinal Albergati. The church is full of both Eastern and Western Baroque artworks, creating a truly fascinating, harmonious blend of styles.
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